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ReptileMan27
Joined: 27 Oct 2005 Posts: 449 Location: New York
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Posted: Fri Jul 27, 2007 3:36 pm Post subject: Leopard Gecko Care |
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Leopard Gecko(Eublepharis Macularis) Care Sheet
Common Name: Leopard geckos,Leos for short.
Scientific Name: Eublepharis Macularis
Range: Afghanistan, Pakistan, and India
Introduction: Leopard Geckos(Eublepharis Macularis) are one of the most popular species of lizards or herps out there and for good reason. They are a very attractive,easy to care for,docile,and hardy species. In my opinion theres no better begginer lizard out there. They also come in a wide variety of different morphs. Leos can live up to 15 years or more if kept properly. Leos generally get 6-7 inches for females and males can get up to 9 inches.
Housing: One adult leopard gecko can be housed in a 10 gallon tank or larger. Leos dont climb and spend all their time on the ground, so the cage should have more lenght and width rather then height. Leos cant climb glass so they are not an escape threat but its still best to have a cover to keep any unwated dogs,cats,or hands out of the cage. Only house 1 male per cage, if their is more then one male they will fight and maybe even kill each other. 1 male can be housed with several females fine but dont put a male and female in the same cage unless you are prepared for eggs, they will likely breed. If your not looking to breed then keep a male by itself or keep just females togther. Aslong as females are about the same size, they should be fine together but keep an eye on them and be prepared to seperate them if they fight or one bullies the other. Before introducing any new leos together, make sure to Quarantine the new one for atleast 30-90 days to make sure its healthy. Never put leos with any other species, mixing species is not a safe or good idea. Keeping the cage clean is important because most parasites or infections are from contact with fecal matter(poop). Leos tend to pick one corner of the cage to poop in, so this makes for easy clean up. Leos should also have a humid hide in the cage at all times. A humid hide is important to add with shedding. You can buy one or easily make one by taking a plastic butter tub or other small plastic container and cutting a hole in the side large enough for the leo to get in and out. Put moist paper towels in it and keep them moist, change them as they get dirty.
Heating + Lighting: Leos are nocturnal and dont require any UVB or any special lighting. Under Tank Heaters work best for heating leos because they need the belly heat to help digest food etc... Stay away from bright light for leos because it can stress them. A nocturnal, infared,or cermic heat emitter can be used for additional heat. Day time temps should be between 88 and 90 degrees on the warm side, and at night temps can drop to 80 or 85 degrees. The UTH or heat lamp should be placed on one side of the that is the warm side and the hide spot should be on the warm side. The water dish and humid hide should be on the cool side. By doing this you allow the leo to thermoregulate.
Food + Water: Leopard Geckos are insectivores which means they eat insects. Leos are most commonly fed crickets but mealworms are good to. You can also feed wax worms but only as a treat because they are very fattening and addicting. Some people also feed pinkies as a treat, I personally dont because they are hard to digest for leos and alot of leos wont eat them. If you choose to feed pinkies, make sure its only once. Baby leos must be fed 3-4 times a week and have their cricks or mealies dusted with a calcium powder with vitimain D3 in it atleast 2 to 3 times a week. Babies also should have a small dish of mealies in the cage all the time, make sure its an escape proof dish. Adults can be fed 2-3 times tops a week and once a week for dusting the food. Its also important to have a small dish with just regualar calcium powder in the cage at all times. All uneaten food should be removed from the cage if not eaten an hour after put it, uneaten food left in the cage can stress the leos, cricks and mealies have also been known to chew of toes. Make sure to feed live food nutritous food, this is also know as gut loading. Their are several good gut loading products out their. Leos should have a shallow water dish with fresh water availiable at all times.
Substrate: This is one area of leo care that is always debated but the fact is that responsible owners should look for whats safest and not what looks the best. NO LOOSE SUBSTRATES ARE SAFE FOR LEOS, the best and safest substrates are paper towels,newspaper,tiles,or slate rocks. If you want the most natural thing then slate rocks is your best choice not sand.
Handling: Baby leos like any other baby animals, tend to be more nervous,jumpy,and sometimes defensive. Most will calm down with age and gentle handling. Start getting your baby leo use to you by simply placing your hand in the cage, not touching the leo, after awhile of doing this, your leo will get use to your hand and feel that its not going to eat or harm it. Then you can work on holding the leo, dont not grab a leo by its tail, it will likely fall off. The tail will grow back but will stress the leo alot and thats not good period. To pick up the leo, place your hand flat on the ground and use the other hand to gently coax it into your hand. Allow the leo to walk around on your hand and arm. Do not try to restrain or hold it in a closed hand, they hate that and even adults will freak out.
Conclusion: Make sure to do lots of research before purchasing one. These are living animals, not toys. _________________ Jason
HerpinVerts.Net
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cjreptiles04
Joined: 11 Dec 2004 Posts: 124 Location: Rhode Island
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Posted: Mon Aug 20, 2007 4:27 am Post subject: |
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I don't know about you but I've had a couple escapies before i put my screen on. Their little claws can dig into the sealant bead and they can climb their way out from the corners. I lost 2 that way. I was just glad when i found them hiding in my room ontop of the heat _________________ Reptiles nature is to breed so let nature take it's course |
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ReptileMan27
Joined: 27 Oct 2005 Posts: 449 Location: New York
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Posted: Mon Aug 20, 2007 3:10 pm Post subject: |
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| cjreptiles04 wrote: | | I don't know about you but I've had a couple escapies before i put my screen on. Their little claws can dig into the sealant bead and they can climb their way out from the corners. I lost 2 that way. I was just glad when i found them hiding in my room ontop of the heat | They do have sharp little claws but cant climb up glass, if you have something that they can climb on that goes near the top, they can escape that way. Its generally better to have a cover regardless though. I have had leos in tanks without covers for years though and never had an escape. Their generally to fat to bother lol _________________ Jason
HerpinVerts.Net
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cjreptiles04
Joined: 11 Dec 2004 Posts: 124 Location: Rhode Island
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Posted: Tue Aug 21, 2007 2:54 am Post subject: |
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oh i know i just know that i had a couple of them climb up the corners with there claws in the silacone to escape. just letting ppl know my experience with them. 2 of them did it. SO JUST MAKE SURE YOU PUT A SCREEN ON THERE TANK _________________ Reptiles nature is to breed so let nature take it's course |
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